Traveling with our shih tzu, Odoroki, outside of Sofia was a completely new and different experience for us. For a long time we have been gathering courage and looking for a way to make it happen. It is no secret that in our society there are negative stereotypes about the lack of hygiene of dogs and the irresponsibility of their owners. These are just prejudices, but they lead to discrimination and it is sometimes very difficult for pet owners to find accommodation and tourist activities when traveling with their furry friends.
However, in recent years there has been a change in this trend and Bulgaria has made great progress in the development of dog-friendly tourism. More and more owners are choosing to take their dogs on holiday and more and more hotels, restaurants and tourist attractions are realizing the benefits of such a dog-friendly policy.
- Preparation in advance and tips for traveling with your dog
- Pliska – the first Bulgarian capital
- Yard of the Cyrillic alphabet – Complex “Stara Pliska”
- Madara Horseman
- Tsarev Brod Winery
- Rubo Hotel
- Founders of the Bulgarian State Monument
- The Shumen fortress
- The Kostadinovsky rock monastery near the village of Osmar
- Great Preslav and the Round Church
- The happiness of traveling with your dog
Preparation in advance and tips for traveling with your dog
Roki is not a fan of long walks and just stops on the road if he doesn’t feel like going anymore or is really fired up.
- That is why before the trip to Shumen we got him a transport backpack, to carry him during hikes, and a bike trailer cart for longer distances in the park. It is important for the backpack to be made of breathable materials, fit the weight and size of the dog so that it is comfortable, and have holes for air ventilation inside.
- We took his water bottle (portable bottle + bowl in one) to have access to drinking water at all times, the food bowls,a set of poop bags, wet wipes to clean the paws, the collar and the lead.
- If your dog doesn’t have a tag with the owner’s name and phone number, it’s a good idea to get one. We have engraved the one given to him at each annual vaccination.
- Mandatory condition for dogs as tourists is to have all necessary vaccinations.
Pliska – the first Bulgarian capital
The first stop of our trip was Pliska. It took us about an hour to get there from Varna by car. Halfway through it rained and until the end we were wondering how to reschedule the program to see everything. We eventually made our way to the remains of the palace complex. We armed ourselves with an umbrella and put Rocky in the transport backpack so he wouldn’t get his paws dirty.
Pliska National Historical and Archaeological Reserve
There was an annoying black cat who followed us along the whole path and apparently liked us a lot from the moment we entered. Rocky was giving her haughty looks from above.
In good weather, a walk through the ruins would have been much more pleasant, but we hurried to hide from the rain in the museum. We were impressed by the clothes, ceramics and weapons on display there. They normally don’t let dogs in, because of a former incident, but when they saw that Rocky was in the backpack and there were no other visitors, they agreed.
Pliska was the capital of the First Bulgarian Kingdom from 681 to 893 and played an important role in the history of the region. The proto-Bulgarians built a fortified city with impressive walls and gates on the bank of the river Ticha (today’s Kamchia) quite strategically in order to provide natural defense against invaders.
The Great Basilica
Be sure to visit the Great Basilica. It is located 1 km from the Eastern Gate, it is amazing in terms of architecture and is the most impressive one among the ruins in Pliska. With its impressive dimensions (99 m long and 32 m wide) and complex structure, it was the largest cathedral in Europe in the 9th century.
On an area of over 20 decares, there is a cathedral, a monastery church, a didaskaleion (school) and a scriptorium where the disciples of Cyril and Methodius, who were accepted by Prince Boris-Mikhail in 886, probably worked and founded The Preslav Literary School in the Slavonic language. Undoubtedly, this was the center of spiritual and religious life in early medieval Bulgaria.
Yard of the Cyrillic alphabet – Complex “Stara Pliska”
I visited the area 10 years ago, but then this location did not yet exist on the map. The Yard of the Cyrillic alphabet was opened in 2015 on the occasion of the 1150th anniversary of the conversion of Bulgarians into christianity. An interesting fact is that the landmark is not built by the state, but a private project of an Armenian businessman who has been living in Shumen for many years. The complex pays tribute to the Cyrillic alphabet as the foundation of the Slavic script and to Tsar Boris for his contribution to the establishment of the alphabet.
The sculptures of Cyrillic letters, wax figures of the khans of the First Bulgarian Kingdom and an alley with busts of Bulgarian and foreign writers arouse the curiosity of visitors and make history come alive before them.
Dogs are allowed in the complex. We saw small breeds walking around the alleys. In the closed parts and museum expositions, however, we did not risk being without the transport backpack.
Madara Horseman
I can’t forget to mention the Madara Horseman. The historical-archaeological reserve is located on the road between Varna and Pliska. I have visited it before and we decided to skip it. However, If it’s your first time in the area, don’t make this mistake.
The rock-cut relief is an important historical artifact, a masterpiece of medieval Bulgarian art and is the only one of its kind in Europe. In 1979 it also became part of the UNESCO World Heritage List.
A horseman, a lion, a dog and inscriptions in Greek can be distinguished in the composition. The horseman is supposed to be the personification of Khan Tervel and commemorates him as the winner of the battle in 717. He came to the aid of Byzantium and saved Europe from the invasion of the Arabs. As a result of these events, Bulgaria established itself as a major power in the region.
You can climb up to the site and admire the relief up close, as well as explore the surrounding area, which includes the ruins of a medieval fortress, a cave monastery and a Thracian sanctuary.
Tsarev Brod Winery
After the Yard of the Cyrillic Alphabet, we headed to “Tsarev Brod” winery, to pamper our senses and trace the wine’s journey from the vineyard to the bottle. Our wine guide gave us a very warm welcome and showed us the industrial premises where the grapes are processed, the fermentation takes place and the drinks are bottled. He presented the information in a very engaging way and his love for wine was evident in his stories. The owners of the winery are a family of agronomists – Ivan and Svetla Ivanovi, who have passed their passion about winemaking to their sons – Pavel and Deyan. They focus their efforts on wine production, they have online store and organize wine tours. Both children and pets can attend the cellar tours. Odoroki sniffed everywhere with great curiosity.
It turned out that North-eastern Bulgaria and in particular the Shumen region are very suitable for the development of authentic Bulgarian white wine varieties, thanks to the large temperature amplitudes (warm days and cold nights) and the winds as a result of the proximity to the sea coast.
That is why the staff of the wine cellar “Tsarev Brod” have dedicated their lives to do their best to win world recognition for the quality Bulgarian white wines.
The revival of the Bulgarian white wine variety Gergana
Another contribution of the local winemakers is that they have given new life to a long-lost Bulgarian white wine variety that does not grow anywhere else in Bulgaria – Gergana – a cross between Dimyat and Muscat. Its story is very interesting. It dates back to the 1970s, when a lot of money was invested in the development of new varieties.
It was at that time that Prof. Babrikov created the Gergana variety in order to withdraw the late vintage of Dimyat and prevent crop loss. For this purpose, he crosses it with the early ripening Muscat. Unfortunately, during communist times, the emphasis fell on the high yield of grapes, quality was compromised and the variety was neglected and lost.
Ivan Ivanov – the owner of the “Tsarev Brod” winery, however, likes this variety very much because it produces tasty grapes, is suitable for wine production and has large leaves that provide a very nice shade. Along with Ivan, other people from the village show interest and the variety is propagated from buds and cuttings. With the help of his fellow villagers, the winemaker managed to restore the variety and find planting material, plant vines and in 2015 opened the winery.
During the wine tasting, Sepage 2022, the local red wine variety Eumolpia (a cross between Mavrud and Merlot), reminiscent of raspberry wine, and the snow dessert wine Ice Riesling stood out for me. Apart from these, when you are there you can also try Orange Rosé as well as Pet Nat (natural sparkling wine).
Sepage
What is interesting about the sepage is that it includes three varieties – 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Traminer and 20% Pinot Gris, which ripen at different times, but are brought together to ferment together. The winery explains why they chose this approach to production with a life metaphor: “It’s one thing for three children to grow up together, it’s completely different for them to get to know themselves after 15 years.” Obviously, this is how harmony is achieved both in life and in wine.
Snow wine Ice Riesling
My absolute favorite was the German Riesling dessert wine – very sweet, fresh and elegant. It is also known as snow wine because it is made from frozen grapes that are picked in December. It generates so much sugar during fermentation that the yeast cannot cope with the high sugar content in the pressed sugar concentrate, does not complete the process and evaporates.
And its history is very interesting – in the Middle Ages, German soldiers returned late from war in the winter and wanted to drink some wine. That’s why they came up with the genius idea of making wine from frozen grapes.
I warmly recommend you to peek behind the scenes of the winery and immerse yourself in the curious world of wine with the help of the wine experts from the Tsarev Brod winery.
Rubo Hotel
Convenient location
Tired of the long day, we checked into the Rubo hotel – a modern city hotel in the heart of Shumen, which celebrates its first anniversary in April. The hotel is suitable for dog owners, families with children and business travelers. Its location is quite convenient – it is within walking distance from the city center and 2-3 minutes away from the Shumen Arena‘ where various sports and cultural events take place. Key landmarks such as the monument “1300 years of Bulgaria” and the Shumen fortress are 15 minutes away by car.
A paradise for dogs and their owners
Rubo Hotel‘s biggest benefit for tourists like us is that they are dog-friendly. It’s nice when you can see a corner for your companion in your hotel room – a pet bed, food bowls and a toy, intended only for him. We were very happy with the rubber Scooby Doo toy, and Rocky did not leave it for a second. The rooms are spacious and there is plenty of space for your furry friend. In the summer, dogs can also take advantage of the summer garden, where they can run wild and enjoy the good weather. Therefore, in my opinion, the hotel is a very suitable place for meetings and events of groups and associations of the owners of different breeds of dogs.
One night for your doggie costs BGN 30, which includes a bed, food bowls and deep cleaning and disinfection of the room after the stay. A BGN 100 deposit is provided in case of damage.
The apartments have 2 TVsets, a dining table and a kitchen equipped with a refrigerator, dishes, utensils and a coffee machine, and on the terrace you can drink a cup of aromatic coffee for a good start to the day. We didn’t risk going to a restaurant with Odoroki in Shumen because we weren’t very familiar with the pet policy of the local establishments. That’s why we ordered food and used the dining table as intended.
Casual cosiness and comfort hidden in every detail
Rubo Hotel is the dream come true of two sisters from Shumen who graduated from Hospitality Management in Switzerland – Dana and Boryana. You can notice with a naked eye that the girls are very dedicated to their work – smiling, hospitable and determined to bring good European hospitality practices to their hometown. The concept of the hotel is to make you feel at home. Everything is made with a lot of love and thought for the comfort of the guests:
- The free underground parking is very convenient for the drivers. There is an elevator on the same level which allows you to carry your luggage directly to the room without any effort. It is also a big surprise that there is a charging station for electric cars.
- There is a gallery with photographs of various landmarks in Shumen in the lobby
- The four-legged visitors are welcomed very warmly at the reception
- You will find a vase of fresh flowers, guidebooks for interesting places in Shumen and a yoga mat in your hotel room.
- On the second and third floors there are libraries with books and magazines, which you can resort to when you can’t sleep or have free time. There are also books for the little ones on the lowest shelves so that they can reach them.
- The conference room is a suitable place for organizing events and team buildings.
Founders of the Bulgarian State Monument
The monument “Founders of the Bulgarian State”, better known as “1300 years Bulgaria”, is located within 15 minutes from the hotel by car and is officially our favorite place in Shumen. It was built on the occasion of the 1300th anniversary of the establishment of the Bulgarian state. The monument is majestic and commands respect with its gigantic dimensions and rough shapes. Perhaps the constant wind here also adds to the overall feel. The complex is located at the highest point in the nature park “Shumen plateau” and is visible within a radius of 30 km.
Composition and symbolism
I am impressed by how much meaning and symbolism has been put into the monument. It consists of eight bodies of visible concrete that come together in a spiral and symbolize the gradual rise of the Bulgarian state. The composition includes sculptures of Bulgarian rulers from Khan Asparukh to Tsar Simeon. Interestingly, each is tailored to the character and personal contribution of the respective ruler:
- Khan Asparukh plunged his sword into the ground and laid the foundations of the First Bulgarian State.
- Khan Tervel has his hands crossed – a symbol of his diplomacy.
- Khan Krum demonstrates with his hands what is allowed and beyond what limits it is punishable.
- Khan Omurtag, leaning on a column, has his eyes fixed on the future capital of Preslav
- Prince Boris I stares into the distance to find the most correct path for his people. Since his greatest historical contribution was the conversion of the Bulgarians into christiantity, a luminous cross is depicted above him.
- King Simeon sits proudly on his throne, and to his right are his scribes, boyars and warriors.
Mosaic triptych
In the opposite part of the monument, the triptych mosaic made of natural stones and artificial enamel in gold, silver and red is impressive.
The first panel depicts the warriors of the khan welcoming him and includes the proto-Bulgarian runes. The second panel is dedicated to the conversion into Christianity and the Glagolitic symbols show up. The third – presents the educational mission of Cyril and Methodius and their students and the Cyrillic letters can be distinguished.
Area for cultural, hiking and adventure tourism
To the east of the monument there is a launch pad for paragliding enthusiasts, and the place is one of the most suitable ones for practicing this sport. We found it quite by chance and realised that there is a very beautiful panorama towards Shumen from there
There is also an amphitheater for open-air events behind the monument and an astronomical observatory has been built near the parking lot. The surroundings of the monument offer great conditions for recreation in nature, sports and entertainment. Rocky appreciated the high open meadows where he could run at will and feel free.
The Shumen fortress
The Shumen fortress is located within10 minutes from the hotel and 16 minutes from the monument distance by car. We did not manage to visit it, but we have left it for another time together with the picturesque park “Kyoshkovete”.
The fortress currently operates as an open-air museum and is included in the list of the Hundred National Tourist Sites of Bulgaria. Over the centuries, it has served to fortify the Thracians, Byzantines and Bulgarians. In 1444 the memorable battle between the Crusader Knights led by the Polish King Władysław III and the troops of the Turkish Sultan Murad II took place here. A historical reenactment called “Valor and Glory” is organized every year to commemorate these events. Representatives of amateur knight clubs from all over Europe take part in it.
The Kostadinovsky rock monastery near the village of Osmar
There are many interesting rock monasteries on the outskirts of Shumen, which are definitely worth a visit. The most preserved ones among them are the Kostadinovsky rock monastery near the village of Osmar and the Khankrum rock monastery near the village of Troitsa. In the distant past, these places were used by the Thracians as sanctuaries. In the Middle Ages, they were inhabited by Hesychast monks who sought solitude and escape from worldly life.
According to Grandma Vanga, this is the third energy center in Bulgaria after Rupite and Stone Forest near Varna. I recommmend visiting the monasteries when the trees have blossomed, because then the views will be much more impressive.
To get to the monasteries, you need to do a very detailed preliminary research of the shelters where the eco-trails start. Even better would be to get a the exact coordinates in Google Maps of the starting points of the trek. We relied on what we had read on the Internet and the directions of the locals, but we never made it to the Khankrum Rock Monastery. There were no signs and we initially took the dirt road with the car. Unfortunately, it took us exactly 10 minutes to give up, due to big bumps in the road.
Mishaps on the eco-trail
There were signs for the Kostadinovsky rock monastery, but thanks to exact directions in this travel blog, we found out where the eco-trail starts. Basically, in most Internet sources it is written that the distance to the monastery is taken in 40 minutes by foot in one direction. For us, either because we were carrying Rocky in a backpack (he refused to walk since the beginning of the trek), or because we don’t have much training, it took us much longer. Note that the final stretch before the coveted goal is quite steep. We realized that taking Rocky on this type of hike was not a good idea. However, we did not give up and reached the Kostadinovsky Monastery.
It is worth visiting (but not while carrying a dog in a backpack) because of the beautiful views from there, the mystical energy and the feeling of solitude with your thoughts so high up in nature.
Great Preslav and the Round Church
Preslav is a 20-minute drive from Shumen and offers visitors a unique opportunity to get a glimpse of Bulgaria’s Golden Age. The city was founded in the 9th century by Khan Omurtag. In 893 it became the capital of the First Bulgarian Kingdom and the center of Bulgarian culture and literature.
It impressed with its architecture and was home to some of the most important scientists and artists of the era. In 971 it was conquered by the Byzantine Empire.
Today, tourists can visit the ruins of Simeon’s Palace and view interesting historical artifacts such as the icon of Theodore Stratilatus and the Preslav Golden Treasure – the largest medieval treasure discovered on our lands – in the Archaeological Museum.
We had limited time and therefore chose to focus our attention on the pearl in the crown of the complex – the Round (Golden) Church, built by order of Tsar Simeon. It was an important center of Old Bulgarian writing and Orthodox art in Great Preslav. It is impressive, very well preserved and worth seeing. It reminds of the past greatness of the First Bulgarian State. The outer walls are overgrown with lush vegetation and the place itself carries a more special energy. As far as I understand, in the Archaeological Museum you can see a 3D model of the Round Church through an AR application and learn about its history in a very interactive way.
The visitor center let us explore the ruins with Rocky without a problem. He was very happy – he ran along the columns and curiously sniffed them.
The happiness of traveling with your dog
Although it requires a lot of advance preparation and organization, we are very happy that we dared to take Rocky on a longer trip. Watching him explore new destinations with us and enjoy the sights and smells of each new place filled us with a lot of positive energy and good emotions.
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